【By Observer Net, Liu Bai】

"I want my children to taste the good pork I ate as a child, not the cheap, inferior, fast-growing pork that fills their lives," said Chinese citizen Gao Xianghua.

A report published by Reuters on February 2 focused on the Chinese dining table. The report noted that as the middle class in China increases its demand for high-quality pork, the Western white pigs that were once popular, which grow quickly and are low-priced but have an average taste, are gradually unable to meet market demands. Local black pork, known as "the wagyu of the pork world," has regained popularity with its rich flavor and nostalgic sentiment, and its price can be up to four times that of ordinary white pork, becoming a breakthrough for the Chinese pig industry to make profits during a period of low meat prices.

The report said that Gao Xianghua (a transliteration), who sells crab roe, is a member of China's emerging middle class. She no longer satisfies herself with pork produced in large quantities from Western "white pig" breeds, but instead is pursuing premium products.

In the neighborhood meat shop, she bought 1000 yuan worth of black pig ribs, pig trotters, and sausages. She plans to rub the pork with Sichuan pepper and salt, then hang it on the balcony to dry for eating during the Spring Festival.

This black pork, known as the "wagyu of the pork world," has gained consumer favor due to its higher fat content and more tender meat. According to more than 20 meat producers, analysts, and scholars, after years of overcapacity and falling prices in the Chinese pork market, this premium pork, which is four times more expensive than ordinary white pork, has become one of the few areas still able to make profits.

To meet market demand, China began introducing Western pig breeds in the 1990s. These breeds can be slaughtered in five months, while native Chinese black pigs require a year.

Black pig farmer in Qujing, Yunnan, IC Photo

Last year, as the world's largest pig producer, China's pig slaughter volume reached 720 million. In the fourth quarter of 2025, pork production reached 15.7 million tons, setting a record high for the fourth quarter since 2018.

However, due to changes in the market environment, especially in consumer tastes, pork prices have been declining for years. In December last year, pork prices fell 14.6% year-on-year. In January, China's major pork producer, Wens Food Group, reported that its net profit in 2025 declined by 40.7%-46.1%; the world's largest pig farming company, Muyuan Foods, also predicted a profit decline of 12.2%-17.8% in 2025.

For some producers, black pork has become a way out.

Yang Xinchun (a transliteration) is a 49-year-old pig farmer in Taizhou. In 2025, he made a profit of over 1 million yuan from black pork, and his 1,000 black pigs offset the losses from 6,000 white pigs.

He said his risky move paid off. At the end of 2024, after learning that Guangming Food was targeting the premium market to avoid losses, he started raising black pigs.

"Every day, other pig farmers come to my meat shop to ask for advice," Yang Xinchun said.

He plans to expand his black pig inventory to 15,000 this year and expand his existing three black pork shops into 40 chain stores.

An industry expert said, "Black pigs are the only way out for pig farmers, especially small and medium-sized farmers affected by the drop in white pork prices." According to the introduction, the total number of black pigs in Yang Xinchun's town in Taizhou increased from 10,000 in 2024 to 30,000 in 2025, and local pig farmers hope to reach 100,000 by 2027.

Top Chinese pork producers are also expanding their black pig breeding scale. Wens Food told investors in November last year that their goal is to become the leading brand of black pork in China, and to increase the proportion of black pigs to 5% of their total pig population by 2027. The pork giant New Hope also announced last autumn that it would expand its breeding scale of more than 150,000 black pigs.

Analysts say that it is expected that the number of black pigs will increase by 50% between 2024 and 2026, reaching 30-32 million, accounting for about 5% of China's total pig population.

On the other hand, analysts also pointed out that the demand for high-end pork in China exceeds supply by about 15%-20%, but whether black pork can fill this gap remains uncertain, as producers must establish brands and supply chains in this emerging industry. Black pork companies also face competition from imported products and Chinese pork giants, which are using fast-growing Western breeds to develop premium pork.

Reuters said that there are currently more than 40 indigenous black pig or black-spotted pig breeds in China, each with different premiums. Producers like Yang Xinchun crossbreed black pigs with Western breeds to accelerate growth while maintaining black fur and meat quality. Observers said that if too many producers rush into the market, this niche market may again face oversupply, and profitability may not be sustained.

Dave Casey, senior director of product development and supply at the UK Pig Improvement Company, said, "If a large number of black pigs flood the market, will people still buy them? Will prices fall? Most people are still buying low-cost, low-price pork."

"Unlike Spanish Iberian pork, China does not have a unified standard. I can import a Hampshire pig and call it black pork to meet the requirements. I even heard someone say that they change the color of Western pigs to make them black."

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Original: toutiao.com/article/7602179619348939264/

Statement: This article represents the views of the author alone.