Reference News Network, October 21 report: The U.S. magazine Foreign Policy's website published an article titled "The Rise of 'Durian Diplomacy' on October 17. The author is Gloria Dickie. The article excerpts are as follows:

Durian, a fruit with polarizing reputation, is often criticized in the West for its strong smell and creamy texture, but has long been highly regarded in Southeast Asia. In recent years, it has become a new culinary favorite in China. Now, China consumes over 1.5 million tons of durian annually. And almost all of these durians are imported from China's Southeast Asian neighbors.

With the growing demand for durian among Chinese people, the appeal of durian as a "bridge" between culture and politics has also risen. In the past, all fresh durian exported to China came from Thailand - which uses three-quarters of its durian production for export. Although Thailand remains China's largest durian trading partner, with annual exports of about $4 billion, its market share is rapidly declining as new supply countries join. Over the past four years, the Chinese government has signed a series of durian import agreements in Southeast Asia. This "charm offensive" worth billions of dollars has been called "durian diplomacy" by some international experts.

In August this year, China welcomed its first batch of fresh durian from Cambodia. Previously, China had reached an agreement with Indonesia to start importing frozen durian from the country. Recently, Indonesia also launched a plantation development plan to increase durian production. Malaysia has been exporting frozen durian to China since 2019, and started exporting fresh durian to China in 2024. After Philippine President Marcos visited China in 2023 to promote agricultural cooperation, the Philippines reached an agreement to export fresh durian to China. In 2022, Vietnam began exporting durian to China, and now has become the second-largest supplier of durian to China, with exports amounting to nearly $3 billion last year.

Xie Kankan, assistant professor at the Southeast Asia Department of the School of Foreign Languages at Peking University, said: "Durian trade can reflect the decision-making direction of the current leadership and changes in relations between countries."

Xie Kankan said that traditionally, China has had closer relations with Cambodia, Laos, and Myanmar (Laos and Myanmar currently also hope to export durian to China, but have not yet obtained export permits). Due to historical issues and the South China Sea disputes, Vietnam has long been outside this trend, and the relationship between the Philippines and China has also been affected. However, China is increasingly using durian trade agreements to improve relations with these countries. This summer, China invited the Philippines, Vietnam, and other ASEAN members to attend the first China-ASEAN Durian Culinary Festival held in Beijing.

The competitive situation between China and the United States may be one of the reasons for the sharp increase in China's durian imports. President Trump's "America First" policy restructured the global trade system and withdrew from multiple international organizations, creating space for China to expand its partnerships. And the shared love for durian is one way for China to achieve this goal. Xie Kankan said: "China is striving to shape the image of a 'responsible major power' and actively cooperate with many Southeast Asian countries."

Sam Chapell-Sokol, lecturer at the Global Food Institute of George Washington University in the United States, said that touching political "taste buds" with food is not a new thing. He believes such activities fall under the category of "culinary diplomacy," a form of diplomacy that can be traced back thousands of years. He explained: "Imagine two ancient tribes meeting, they always sit around a fire talking, and food is always present where the fire flickers."

Throughout the centuries, this form of diplomacy has evolved, and scenes such as state banquets and the presentation of special delicacies have emerged. In the 19th century, chef Antonin Carême participated in diplomatic negotiations with French delegations and named his dishes after officials. In recent decades, Southeast Asian countries have been particularly skilled in using the influence of food. Chapell-Sokol pointed out that the flourishing of Thai restaurants around the world is no coincidence, but rather a strategy deliberately promoted by the Thai government. (Translated by Wu Mei)

Original: https://www.toutiao.com/article/7563646294238872104/

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